First day
Heltermaa port
In order to reach Hiiumaa one must take a ferry trip from Rohuküla in the mainland. It's a 75 minute trip. We arrived at Heltermaa port at one o'clock. It was a warm and sunny day. We got off the ferry and we jumped on our bikes and started cycling. The first 5 km were easy. We were moving against the wind, but it wasn't too strong.
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Source: Delfi
Heltermaa port in summer. |
Pühalepa church
The church was larger than we expected. It's the oldest church in Hiiumaa. The church is surrounded by a graveyard with a stone fence and some of the tallest trees in Hiiumaa. There were even a few ancient suncrosses. Next to the church, there is a chapel of a german noblewoman called Ebba Margaretha Stenbock. The initial building of the church was built in the 13th century, so it is over 700 years old. There is a legend of an underground tunnel from the church to Suuremõisa castle. Unfortunately, we couldn't go inside, because it was locked, but we got a few good pictures of the interior. It's open only on Sundays.
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| Although the church was closed, we could peek inside. |
Suuremõisa mansion
Suuremõisa mansion was built for wealthy knights by Ebba Margaretha Stenbock in 1750. There were many additional buildings that were built for servants in the 1800s. But they were mostly in ruins. We couldn't go in because the building was being renovated. Maybe they are finished now, maybe not. The garden that was surrounding the posh mansion was very well maintained.
Vaemla wool factory
On the way, we stopped at a wool factory. It was free so we went in. The machines were really interesting and big and from the 19th century. They were selling wool products at the front desk. We didn't buy any because it was summer and warm.
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| Over 150 year old equipment is still working today. |
Kassari
Kassari is an island connected to the main island by roads. It has a very beautiful nature. Wide fields, cows and sheep. Although Kassari is considered to be the fifth largest island of Estonia, it's actually connected to Hiiumaa by a land bridge. Few hundred years ago it was separated from Hiiumaa by the sea.
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| Typical field in Kassari island. |
Kassari windmill
It is a good example of windmills in Hiiumaa. It was built in the middle of the 19th century. Hiiumaa is infamous for it's remarkable windmills. Now the windmill is restored and everyone can go in whenever they like. The windmill was a watchtower for the soviets in the 1980s.
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You can take a break inside the windmill
and climb to the top on your own risk. |
Sääre tirp
Sääre tirp is a 2 km long cape that reaches out from the island of Kassari and faces south-west. We went swimming there but the water was very cold and shallow. It was fun hiking to the tip of the cape.
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| Tip of the cape. |
Vetsi guesthouse
We stopped at the guesthouse to eat and spend the night. We got our food at a restaurant that was attached to the guesthouse. We ate smoked flounder and potatoes. The food was cheap and delicious.
We slept in barrel-shaped cottages. It was very cheap. Only 10€ a night. While sleeping it was stuffy, because we did not want to open the window. There were a lot flies and we didn't want to let them in.
More information about Vetsi guesthouse
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| Barrel accomodation under apple trees. |
Second day
On the way to Sõru port
We passed Orjaku port. Near Orjaku there was an observation tower. It showed great view over Käina bay and the forest. Near Emmaste we found the Harju-Risti windmill, which was surronded by a beautiful
meadow. There was also a huge swing, which was fun. From there, we stopped at a teahouse, where we ate. In the last 5 km there was a very strong wind blowing against us and it was very hard to cycle. One of Martin's pedals broke in two.
Sõru port
In Sõru port we checked out the museum. It exhibited old artifacts of Sõru port and old Soviet stuff, like cans, ship parts and school benches. The port is a gateway to Saaremaa, Estonia's biggest island both by area and population. In winter time it's possible to drive on sea ice from Hiiumaa to Saaremaa.
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Hiiumaa was famous for it's canned
fish during the Soviet era. |
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"Alar"- the oldest and the biggest surviving
wooden ship of Estonia in Sõru port. |
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| Sõru museum has interestin exhibitions. |
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| View to Sõru port. |
Vanajõgi
We visited Vanajõgi. It was a steep river valley with ancient forest and high river banks. Anciet forest and river canyon offers nice views and walks. Around the valley, there is a beautiful hiking trail, which is very easy to find and offers beautiful views and is easily passable.
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| Vanajõgi hiking trail. |
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| Vanajõgi valley. |
Kõpu
At Kõpu there is a lighthouse. It's probably the most spectacular and unique sight in Hiiumaa. It is one of the oldest lighthouses in the world and is 36 meters tall. We had lunch at a cafe that was next to the lighthouse. We climbed to the top of the lighthouse and it was a beautiful view.
Then we climbed down again and we found out that we should've bought tickets to go up there.
Oops.
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One of the oldest lighthouses in the world.
It's built on the 16-th century. |
Ristna lighthouse
We checked out Ristna lighthouse as well. We climbed that as well. The view over the sea and the forest was spectacular. We actually bought tickets that time. In the evening we went to see the stormiest beach of Estonia.
We spent the night in the summer home of a friend. There was no electricity but we had candles so it was fine.
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| Ristna lighthouse |
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| Ristna beach, the best place in Estonia for surfing. |
Rebasemägi
Rebasemägi (Fox hill) is one of the biggest hills in Hiiumaa. We stopped and climbed to the top of it. The hill has pretty steep slopes, but there are stairs which take you to the top. There was not a lot of view, because the pines were too tall, but there was an observation tower there so we did see a pretty good view. After that we continued to ride towards Tahkuna.
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| Wooden observation tower on Rebasemägi. |
On the way to Tahkuna
While we were cycling, it suddenly started raining. We took shelter in a bus stop and waited until the rain stopped. But it didn't stop so we just continued. It was very difficult to cycle because of the heavy rain. We only had 3 km to go.
Tahkuna
In the evening we went to sauna. It was fun, because there was a pool right next to it. We ate barbecued meat and then went to sleep. We stayed in
Kalda Talu.
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| Huts in Kalda holiday village. |
Final Day
Kaibaldi desert
Kaibaldi desert is a huge field of sand. It's just called desert, actually it's a heath. Desert was interesting and in case of a warm day, it really gave you the feeling of a real desert. We found several animal tracks and it was quite difficult to move beacuse of the sand.
Kaibaldi desert is actually anthropogenic and was made during the World War II. Heath is surrounded by sparse, sandy and low woods, with trees no more than three meters tall.
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| Kaibaldi desert |
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| Animal tracks |
Wooden Eiffel tower.
In the middle of Hiiumaa, a local guy made a replica of famous Eiffel tower in France. Unfortunately, government did not like the idea and was worried about safety of the tower. But now, local guy built another one, which is safe enouhg. 31 meters tall, it's almost exactly 1/10 scale model of it's french predecessor. Despite the negative government reaction, the tower has attracted 30,000+ vistitrs per year and has developed a status as a traditional monument on the island. Tower is surrounded by very bizzar themepark with obscure wooden structures. Whole place looks like Salvador Dali world.
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Wooden Eiffel tower is the most visited
place in Hiiumaa. |
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| One of the weirdest places we're ever been to. |
Kärdla
Kärdla is the only town in Hiiumaa, it has a population of 3000 people. It has some beautiful architecture, for example Kärdla pristsimaja.
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| Main square of Kärdla. |
Practical information
1) In July, the temperature ranges between +12 to +30 degrees Celsius.
2) Expect strong winds, prepare for heavy rain.
3) Budget accomodation is available everywhere. Bed in shared room costs around 15-20 euros.
4) On east costs there are plenty of shops selling food, but on the west coast closest shops may be over 40 km away. However, it is possible eat in restaurants or taverns.
5) Total budget for four day trip for one person can be around 100 euros, including food and accomodation.
6) There are no dangerous animals on the island except for the ticks and occasional vipers. Check yourself every day for ticks!
7) Take sunscreen and mosquito repellent with you!
8) Although there is only a few policemen on the island, you should be aware that in Estonia it is obligatory to wear a helmet while biking.
